Doll News Winter 2019 - 56

Changing styles featured the flat front skirt with a pre-bustle.
Les Modes Parisiennes 1868

This illustration
shows a stiffened
muslin bustle,
called a 'tournure'
(French, torneüre,
act of turning),
from 1873.

This 1873
tournure
features a wire
bustle support
with a ruffle.

56

WINTER 2019

Undergarments of the 1870s
By the beginning of the 1870s underwear began
to change again and included artiﬁcial aids called
tournures or bustles, which were small and provided
the shaping above the derrier. As the decade
progressed, bustles gradually became a type of steel
"birdcage" covered with material and by the early to
mid-1870s these shape enhancers extended down to
the knee. They became a type of half crinoline, known
as a crinolette. The mid- to-late 1870s dress styles were
characterized by a ﬁgure-following ﬂat front, created
by a longer corset with tight lacing. Known as the
"cuirasse bodice" the tight lacing contributed to the
extremely small waist shape of the silhouette with the
bulk of the skirt remaining concentrated at the back
and often including a long train. Lady dolls are often
found to have this very tiny waist and accentuated hips
which accommodates the style so well. By the end of
the decade, the skirts ﬁt more closely and a long, slim
body silhouette resulted. For girls and young women,
it was much the same with a close- ﬁtting bodice and a
ﬂat-fronted skirt with the fullness concentrated toward
the back and hem. The length of the skirt accorded with
the age of the child.
Slips of this period are often ﬂat in the front and
include tiered rufﬂes and sometimes metal cages to
help support the shape of the skirt back, following the
design. In 1877, a new style of chemise and drawers
called a "combination" was introduced, which helped
to revolutionize the smooth shape of this style by
reducing bulk under the corset and increasing comfort
to the wearer. The development of this innovative
undergarment continued well into the next century. The
latter part of the 1870s continued to reﬂect these styles and
it was not until the 1880s that the bustle again began to
increase in size and shape and fashion took its next turn.
The popularity of lady dolls remained very strong
throughout this period of changing style from the
late 1850s to the late 1870s, and just as their human
counterparts had a desire for the fashionable styles of
the times, so did these diminutive divas. Both garment
and undergarment styles reﬂected the changing
times for dolls just as they did for the ladies of the
day. Crinolines and layers of petticoats gave way
to bustles and bustles gave way to ﬂat-fronted slips
with rufﬂes and enormous trains. During the Golden
Age of Dollmaking the ladies reigned supreme as the
epitome of fashion while underneath it all, their ﬁne
foundations were what really held it all together.

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Doll News Winter 2019

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